Kenya

Why go

The migration river crossings, when they happen, are in the Mara from roughly July into October. The rest of the year the reserve is still one of Africa's great big-cat parks.

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  The migration, and the river

  From about July into October the wildebeest, zebra, and gazelle are on the Masai Mara side of the ecosystem. The picture everyone wants is a Mara River crossing. It can happen at dawn, or not that week at all.

  Private conservancies beside the reserve limit the number of vehicles and usually allow a night drive. The reserve itself is where the river sits. Say which one you want. They are not the same stay.

  Outside those months the Mara is still one of Africa's best big-cat parks. January to March is the quieter, greener-dry window.

  • Endless lines of wildebeest and zebra when the herds are in.
  • Lions, cheetahs, and leopards with or without the migration.
  • A balloon at dawn is an extra, not part of the ordinary drive.
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  Big cats, elephants, and rhino, in different parks

  The Mara is the cat park. Amboseli, under Kilimanjaro, is the large-tusked elephants and the view of the mountain when the cloud lifts. Laikipia and Lewa are the rhino country, black and white, on private land.

  • Nairobi National Park, on the edge of the city, is a first or last morning for Rothschild's giraffe and the skyline.
  • Samburu adds gerenuk, Grevy's zebra, and reticulated giraffe that you will not see in the Mara.
  • Mount Kenya and the Aberdares are the highland alternative when you want forest and fewer vehicles.
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  How the days feel

  A classic Kenya camp is two drives, a guide who knows the families, and a small number of rooms. Meals are in camp. The north and Laikipia add walks and night drives that the Mara reserve does not allow.

  • Fly from Wilson Airport in Nairobi. The road to the Mara is a full day.
  • A coast finish is Diani for a family resort, or Lamu if you want a Swahili town without cars.
  • Rwanda or Uganda for gorillas, Zambia for a walking safari, and Zanzibar for a beach are the combinations that actually fit a two-week trip.

Where to go

• Masai MaraThe reserve and the private conservancies around it. Conservancies cost more and usually include night drives and a stricter vehicle limit. The reserve is the river.
• SamburuThe northern river and the dry-country species. Pair it with Lewa or Laikipia rather than trying to drive it onto a Mara week.
• Lake Nakuru and the AberdaresRift Valley lakes and highland forest. A night or two if you are already moving between Nairobi and the Mara, not a whole holiday.
• LamuA car-free Swahili town and a quieter coast. Dhows and reefs. Allow several nights. It is not a day trip from Mombasa.
• Mombasa and the beachesThe south coast and Mombasa for a family resort after the bush. Hot and humid all year. Rain can arrive in any month.

When to go

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  July to October

  The long dry season. The migration is in the Mara, crowds and prices peak in July and August, and the crossings can happen on any morning or not at all.

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  January to March

  Warm, mostly dry, and excellent game viewing without the migration crowds. A favourite window for a first safari that is not chasing the river.

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  April, May, and November

  The long rains, then the short rains. Some camps close in April and May. November is often still workable between showers, with green light and lower rates.

Travel advice

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  Flying

  Nairobi is the hub. Light aircraft from Wilson Airport hop to the Mara, Samburu, and the coast. The road to the Mara is a long day and a fair choice only if the budget needs it.

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  Parks and conservancies

  A conservancy fee is higher and buys fewer vehicles. Say if you want the river itself or a quieter concession. We will not sell one as the other.

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  Health

  Malaria is present in the Mara, the coast, and much of the low country. Nairobi's centre is not the same risk. See a clinic for the route you are actually taking.

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  Entry

  Kenya's electronic travel authorisation has replaced the old visa for many visitors. Check the current rule, including for children, before you pay for flights.

Accommodation

Costs

From the journal

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  Places

  Kenya Safari Guide for Beginners

  Kenya Safari Guide for Beginners is a planning note from Safari Continents Travel. It sits beside the destination guides for Kenya. Published trip prices are a guide. You receive a quote before anything is paid.

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  Lodges

  Best Kenya Safari Lodges Safari Camps

  Best Kenya Safari Lodges Safari Camps is a planning note from Safari Continents Travel. It sits beside the destination guides for Kenya. Published trip prices are a guide. You receive a quote before anything is paid.

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  Places

  Which Is Better Kenya vs Uganda Safaris

  Which Is Better Kenya vs Uganda Safaris is a planning note from Safari Continents Travel. It sits beside the destination guides for Uganda, Kenya. Published trip prices are a guide. You receive a quote before anything is paid.

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  Places

  Expect Laikipia Kenya

  Expect Laikipia Kenya is a planning note from Safari Continents Travel. It sits beside the destination guides for Kenya. Published trip prices are a guide. You receive a quote before anything is paid.